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A jet of steam rises with a whistle while a red hot poker immerses in a bowl of cider. A female garland launches a piece of toast with a long fork and lodges the offering among the branches of a tree. Then, in the middle of the cries of the crowd, the ceremony lit by the torch ends with shots that sound under the clear evening sky.
For most of the year, Sheppy’s Farm in Bradford-On-Tone west of England uses peak machines to reach out its 22,000 apple trees and produce more than half a million cider gallons per cider per cider per cider per cider year.
But for one evening in January, modern agricultural techniques are reserved for an old ritual called “Washsailing”, where the apple harvest of the coming year is blessed, the evil spirits are driven out and the cider is drunk with enthusiasm by hundreds of spectators.
Dating from at least the 13th century, Washsailing (the word derived from an old English toast to good health, “Waes Hael”) seemed to have almost disappeared in the 1990s.
But recently, he returned to cider manufacturers and community events, especially in the west of England, stimulated by an increasing interest in tradition and folklore, renewed respect for the countryside and a desire Among some British to animate the dark winter months with a party.
“The Washing has fallen by the way for a very long time and had a huge renewal,” said Louisa Sheppy, co -owner of Sheppy’s, a company that has been cider for more than two centuries, while preparing the farm ‘Company for its seventh consecutive year of accommodation of a Wassail (one of the dozens announced in the region this winter).
Ms. Sheppy is not superstitious and does not really believe – as tradition supports – that the spell of the harvest depends on the annual Wassail. But she appreciates the event, which attracts more than 400 paid guests, promotes cider and presents folk dancers known as Morris Men and an animated barn dance.
But before the dance, visitors first joined a song directed towards two trees, imploring them to produce “Hatfuls, Capfuls, three bags of Bushel”, of fruit. Then the “queen of the Wassail” of the evening (which symbolizes fertility and abundance) tasted heated cider, soaked a piece of toast and poured the rest around the roots of the trees.
Dressed in a crown of ivy, guy, helerte and rosemary, the queen used a grumpy fork to place the bread in the branches – a gesture designed to attract Robins, which are considered to be pre -presets.
Although his evening has passed, it was not without stress for the Queen of Wassail 2025 of Sheppy, Em Sibley. Drinking the cider was good (“Oh my God, it’s really good, sweet and delicious,” she said) and he therefore poured it around the tree.
More delicate, however, dipped the toast in the cider without making it soggy, then pulling it on a long fork in the branches of the tree without sending the pieces of bread falling.
“You do not want to cum – just in case,” said Sibley, an employee of Sheppy, alluding to the celestial consequences possible to build a ritual intended to guarantee the harvest.
“When everything is bad, and the harvest is broken, and we do not have as much apples for the year as usual,” said Ms. Sibley, “you don’t want to be the one who thinks” oh fucking: It could have been toast! “”
Once a Christmas or New Year’s tradition, Wassailing generally takes place around January 18 or later.
Ceremonies have evolved over time, according to Ronald Hutton, professor of history at the University of Bristol, which dates from the first Wassals recorded in the 13th century, when a large wooden bowl with alcohol was transferred by Friends standing in a circle.
Someone was drinking and called “Waes Hael” – would rejoice – and the others chose “Drinc Hael” or drank well, he said, adding that it could go into a medieval consumer game.
“You continue to pass the Wassail bowl from hand to hand and take a slurp until the host decides enough – or people who have gradually overturned and the winner is left standing,” said Professor Hutton , author of A book on English folklore.
In the 16th century, the link with agriculture was established, the farmers singing and bless the hives of bees, fruit trees, crops, sheep and cattle to encourage an abundant harvest.
The interest in Wassailing was reflected in the last century, said Professor Hutton, “with the growth of horticulture and fertilizers, a better knowledge of the functioning of trees and farms, and a decrease in belief Whether the song of your trees or your fields feels good. “”
While he was preparing to put his multicolored costume, Mike Highfield, 64, a Morris dancer and master of ceremonies in Sheppy’s, where he made visitors, greeted the resurgence.
“We should celebrate our culture because cider was really the wine of England at some point,” said Highfield, adding that the night brings people together on a drink which, outside of its low alcohol version , generally varies in force from 4% to 7.5% alcohol.
“Once you’ve dropped your hair and shout on an apple tree – and you cry and sing – you start talking to people because you lose some of your inhibitions,” he said.
A spectator, Matthew Mudge, 62, a church musician in Cardiff, in Wales, said that he wanted to attend a Wassail for decades. “It is a fantastic tradition. I’m sorry that it took me so long to get here, “said Mr. Mudge, enjoying a cider after the ceremony, adding:” All the Washing involves alcohol consumption and that may be why They lived for six centuries. “”
In the village of Midsomer Norton, about 80 kilometers away, around 100 people have proven for a community event in Wassail three small apple trees in the local park. Instead of a queen, local children helped place pieces of toast in the branches. Trevor Hughes, 70, a dancer from Morris, who directed the ceremony, said that tradition had never disappeared here.
“We have always done washing at this time of the year. It may not have been announced, it may have only local village events, but he is never really dead, “he said. Lately, he added “there was an explosion of Wassals because it is a simple way to laugh.”
Although Wassailing’s pleasure is irrefutable, does anyone really think he protects the harvest?
“The rationalist in me says” Of course no, how could he, “said Professor Hutton, who spends a Sunday afternoon each time in January with friends in his garden, singing in his trees on a few glasses.
However, he noted that his apple tree “never carried anything until I” tire the first time “. Addition: “He has bumper crops every year since.”
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